Sibyl Dunlop, an Arts & Crafts multi-gem brooch, circa 1965

Sibyl Dunlop, an Arts & Crafts multi-gem brooch, circa 1965, in the 'carpet of gems' design, set with amethyst, chrysoprase, carnelian and chalcedony, the geometric cabochons in a repeating pattern around three large heart-shaped blue chalcedony cabochons, set in an openwork foliate silver frame, signed S DUNLOP, London hallmarks, date letter for 1965, diameter 5.6cm

The Scottish jewellery designer Sibyl Dunlop (1889-1968) first opened her workshop in Kensington High Street, London, in 1920. Here, she became known for her distinctive style in jewellery, complemented by her bohemian dress of Middle Eastern caftans and Russian boots. Though the acme of the Arts & Crafts movement was waning by this date, Dunlop continued to work in the style, her designs characterised by dense geometric patterns of cabochons known as 'carpet of gems'. Dunlop typically made use of semi-precious stones such as chalcedony and opal, which she juxtaposed with amethyst and other precious stones, to create the vibrant colour palette for which her pieces are known. Worked by lapidaries in the German gem-cutting centre of Idar-Oberstein, the stones were then set by the craftsmen in Dunlop's London workshop, who created jewellery out on the shop floor for clients to see, very much in the spirit of the Arts & Crafts movement. Her principal craftsman and manager was W. Nathanson, with whom she collaborated until the outbreak of the Second World War in 1939. Following the war, it was Nathanson who continued the business due to Dunlop's poor health, and production continued until his retirement in 1971.