Fine Jewellery - Day Two - 30 Oct 2025
733
LOUIS MARUZZI, AN ART DECO DIAMOND AND ONYX BRACELET, CIRCA 1925
£20,000 - £25,000
LOUIS MARUZZI, AN ART DECO DIAMOND AND ONYX BRACELET, CIRCA 1925, composed of pierced links pavé-set with old circular-cut and single-cut diamonds with baguette-shaped onyx in milligrain settings, forming a trompe-l'oeil woven pattern, in platinum, French control marks and maker's mark, length 17.5cm
The geometric elegance and precision setting of the present diamond bracelet are characteristic of Louis Maruzzi (active 1911–1944), an Italian-born jeweller established at 10 rue de la Vrillière, Paris. Maruzzi’s workshop operated at the heart of the city’s high jewellery district and became a trusted manufacturing partner to leading maisons, most notably Van Cleef & Arpels. In the 1920s and 1930s, as the maison expanded its repertoire of platinum and diamond creations, it relied on a network of master ateliers to execute designs with absolute fidelity to its aesthetic ideals.
Maruzzi was particularly admired for his mastery of articulated platinum mounts—engineered for both structural integrity and suppleness—and for his finely graduated pavé setting that maximised scintillation without sacrificing line purity. The articulated open-link pattern of this bracelet, with its rhythm of diamond-set panels alternating with precisely engineered connectors, reflects the Art Deco fascination with architectural form and mechanical precision. Its restrained luxury, where geometry frames brilliance, mirrors the Van Cleef & Arpels ethos of the era: jewels that were both modern in spirit and impeccable in execution. Pieces of this calibre not only embody the stylistic codes of interwar Paris, but also offer a tangible link to the discreet but vital workshops whose artisanship underpinned the renown of the great maisons.
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