Sparkling Design

30th January 2023

Among the antique gems and fine jewels of the Fine Jewellery auction at Woolley and Wallis nestle a number of statement pieces from some of the best-known companies in jewellery design.

Names such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari and Tiffany conjure up images of the world’s most glamorous women, who have been photographed wearing statement pieces for over a century. Such jewels come with a hefty price tag when bought new from the jeweller, but can be more affordable when purchased at auction. Buying pre-loved jewels also offers the opportunity to purchase limited edition pieces which are no longer produced.

Among the finest jewels in the auction on 2^nd February is a diamond-set feather brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels (lot 463). One of the jeweller’s favourite motifs, this diamond brooch was made in the 1990s, but recalls previous jewels of this design by the maker, particularly a ruby and diamond version worn by Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor. Intricately pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, its quill channel set with a seamless line of baguette diamonds, this extraordinary brooch beautifully demonstrates an enduring technical mastery of stone setting, and carries a pre-sale estimate of £25,000-35,000. The long-established French firm favoured natural and feminine motifs in the early and mid 20^th century, with feathers, flowers and ribbons commonly recurring. A diamond and sapphire bow brooch from the 1920s (lot 476), set with sapphires and diamonds, is just as wearable today, a century later. Among the firm’s more affordable pieces is a playful necklace titled Mecredi à Paris, depicting a young girl holding the strings of a bunch of colourful balloons in polished coral (lot 198). Its starting price is £1,000.

The ever-fashionable Art Deco movement is represented by two characteristic pieces by Cartier – a single diamond clip brooch designed as a stylized buckle (lot 478), and a pair of classic diamond dress clips (lot 473), both dating from circa 1930. Two examples of their Love pendant (lot 200, lot 202) are also being sold just in time for Valentine’s Day, with starting prices well below their retail equivalent.

Aside from these superb signed pieces, this sale also features some true rarities which span the history of jewellery design. Among the rarest pieces is an enamelled ‘lovebirds’ ring from around 1765 (lot 364), depicting a pair of doves, their breasts inset with rose-cut diamonds. These adorable, romantic enamel rings are enormously fragile and very few have survived, with one comparable in the British Museum. Even further back is an exquisite gold, enamel and diamond crucifix pendant, circa 1600 (lot 377). Possibly Spanish or Bavarian, set with early table-cut diamonds, it’s a late Renaissance treasure, with a pre-sale estimate of £3,000-5,000.

The two day auction (beginning on 1^st February) includes items to suit all tastes and budgets, with almost 500 lots to choose from.