"The pearl is the queen of gems and the gem of queens." - Grace Kelly

20th January 2026

For centuries, pearls have symbolised purity, chastity, power, and status. Worn by royalty and rulers, they have long occupied a unique position in the hierarchy of gemstones, valued not only for their beauty, but for their rarity and the mystique surrounding their formation.

No monarch embodied this symbolism more completely than Queen Elizabeth I. Famously adorned with ropes of pearls in portraits and public appearances; the Virgin Queen used the gem as a visual expression of virtue, authority, and imperial ambition. Pearls are so closely associated with her image that her reign is sometimes referred to as ‘The Pearl Age’. Many of Elizabeth’s pearls originated in the New World, harvested from the seabed off South America and the Caribbean. She actively encouraged explorers such as Francis Drake and John Hawkins to raid Spanish ships, bringing pearls and other riches back to England as both trophies of conquest and symbols of national power.

The history of pearls, however, stretches back far beyond the Elizabethan court. Natural pearls are among the oldest gemstones known to humankind. Archaeological evidence suggests they were worn in Mesopotamia as early as 3000 BCE. In ancient Rome, pearls were so prized that Julius Caesar reportedly restricted their wear to the ruling classes. Pliny the Elder described them as the most valuable objects in the world, and legend tells of Cleopatra dissolving a pearl in vinegar to demonstrate her immense wealth to Mark Antony.

Today, natural pearls remain highly sought after by collectors, commanding significant prices at auction. Woolley & Wallis’s Jewellery Department have a longstanding history of selling natural pearls, recently highlighted with the sale of a pair of natural saltwater pearl and diamond drop earrings for over £118,000* and a pair of natural pearl and diamond earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels, inspired by a designed owned by Princess Grace of Monaco, which sold for over £75,000*.

The Fine Jewellery sale on 28–29 January 2026 concludes with an exceptional example of this rare gem: a natural saltwater pearl and emerald necklace (Lot 593). Featuring fifteen graduated pearl drops with gold finials, alternately set with carved emerald beads, this impressive piece exemplifies both craftsmanship and rarity. It carries a pre-sale estimate of £40,000–60,000 (plus fees), underscoring the continued reverence for natural pearls in the modern market.

*Prices are inclusive of Buyer’s Premium