Gilded Wings. Insect motifs in Victorian jewellery.

2nd July 2025

During the Victorian period (1837-1901) and against a backdrop of monumental change driven by the Industrial Revolution, there was a trend for naturalistic designs, particularly in jewellery, that were imbued with symbolic meaning. Before the advent of the traditional engagement ring, the brooch was extremely popular, widely worn and often presented as a meaningful gift.

Sentimental jewellery appealed to the Victorian mind and the theme of insects chimed perfectly with contemporary taste. Butterflies, dragonflies, beetles, bees, even spiders and flies all feature in the repertoire and conveyed messages that could be easily read by the wearer and those around them. Insects were employed in the same fashion as the 19^th century ‘language of flowers’, where individual blooms also carried symbolic meanings.

The transformation of a butterfly from caterpillar and chrysalis to winged creature mirrored the Victorian fascination with spiritual growth and rebirth, transformation and the ephemeral nature of life. The dragonfly was seen as equally transformative but agile and signified being ready for change or wishing the wearer ease through transition. Bees symbolised industry and hard work and were associated with loyalty and even royalty. Napoleon adopted the bee as a symbol of power and the motif continued to be popular after his death. Spiders, with their intricate webs, symbolized skill and perseverance, reflecting the Victorian appreciation for craftsmanship and determination. Even flies were worn to imply resilience, strength and the ability to overcome challenges. Beetles and scarabs were popular during the Egyptian Revival period to represent eternal life and protection.

Compositions ranged from stylised depictions of insects to highly naturalistic renditions aimed at conveying the liveliness of the living creature. The use of en tremblant elements, attached via minute springs to allow shimmering movement, was typical at the time.

The cover lot (Lot 559) in our upcoming July sale of Fine Jewellery is the large late 19th century, diamond butterfly brooch with old cushion-shaped diamonds features en tremblant wings to great effect. Lot 397 is a beautifully crafted and anatomically observed Victorian sapphire, diamond and ruby brooch in the form of a bee. As they are today, diamonds were a popular signifier of eternal and lasting commitment but during the Victorian era sapphires were worn to signify purity and fidelity while rubies reflected passion. Lot 395 is a Victorian diamond butterfly brooch that can also be worn as a hair pin. 

Summer Fine Jewellery auction takes place on Wednesday 9^th and Thursday 10^th July and includes over 500 lots, from Victorian to Art Deco, showcasing a number of beautiful historic pieces. Lot 559 carries a pre-sale estimate of £35,000-£45,000 (before auction fees), while other sale estimates range from £200-£300 to £20,000-£30,000.